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Among the contestants was year-old Suguri Shishikura, who was making her second appearance as a model and her first at Top Kids Collection. The modeling opportunities that exist for preteens in Japan nowadays were certainly evident at Yoyogi National Gymnasium at the beginning of August. Nowhere is such an ideal more apparent than in the fashion industry, and youth fashion, in particular, has undergone changes in the past five years or so that makes it virtually unrecognizable from its former state. When the editors at Nico Puchi first asked readers to submit photographs of their everyday fashion choices, they were flooded with images of attire that was, in a word, bland. Anyone wishing to submit an application to join an audition must first purchase clothing items at related shops such as Lovetoxic, Lindsay or mezzo piano in order to get an application form. InYamamoto originally launched a sister publication called Nicola that catered to an elementary and middle school demography.

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Like Suguri, she also participated in the Tokyo Top Kids Collection, but felt she needed to take additional walking lessons to pass the myriad auditions she hopes to apply for — both now and in future.

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Material girls: Japan’s preteen model boom

Over the past six years, however, the Tokyo Top Kids Collection has become more than just a commercial avenue for fashion houses to showcase the latest preteen trends. Born in Shizuoka, Yua is an established model for a fashion brand called Inner Press. As for Suguri, she is honing her style and skills by studying fashion magazines so that she can one day become the ideal Nico Puchi model. Nowadays, the show also serves as one of the primary testing grounds for aspiring children who wish to become models, with amateurs who have never modeled before comprising at least half of the preteen models who take to the catwalk. However, Yamamoto decided to highlight the over-the-top pop cuteness and rebellious nature of many of the images submitted because he believed kids were smart enough to extract the elements of particular fashion brands they identified with, especially styles that borrowed bits and pieces from haute couture. Every week, she goes to Nglobal, a Shizuoka-based enterprise that offers specialized modeling courses and includes classes for children. Once she started striding down the Tokyo Top Kids Collection runway, however, she underwent something of a metamorphosis, and by the time she struck her final pose at the end of the catwalk, she was confident enough to break into a smile and bask in the applause of the thousands in the crowd who had gathered to attend.

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